Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Pattern, fabric etc.

The pattern I have used for years, and refined as it to how Greg likes it to fit and look, is the Period Impressions Officer's Frock Coat 712. I have changed over the years the shape of the sleeves, he doesn't like those large shaped sleeves, and the fact that the pattern has them hang way off at the shoulders, which might be period appropriate but...he is having a tailor make this coat. I have not had someone, to my face, say that the fit is not period appropriate. An officer is paying a tailor to make his uniform, it is not issued, and thus it is to fit as he likes. The fabric was purchased from http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/. It is a "tropical weight" or lightweight 100% wool twill gaberdine in a midnight blue or dark navy blue color. If you purchase a "navy blue" it is more like an army color. If you live and reenact someplace colder than Texas, you might choose a heavier fabric, but the color is what I am going for.  I also interline the frock coat with 100% cotton canvas for weight, especially in the body sections and a lighter weight cotton twill for the sleeves and skirt.  And even though I have used this pattern many times, I generally make a mock up ( always make a mock up of scrap fabric if you have not used the pattern before). Some fit very well and other need fixing. I use this pattern, but I think the directions could be better.
Cutting out the wool
I have also drafted a more appropriate collar since it is a stand/fall collar. I used information from "Mens Garments 1830-1900". If you want one, just email me and I will send you a copy of what I have made. (Greg is a 42 regular). You can see the piece for the collar in the upper left just above the "skirt" piece, below the side back. I think I will take a photo of it and post it as well.

No comments:

Post a Comment