Stand Fall Collar

The stand fall collar I have drafted using information from "Men's Garments 1830-1900". Unfortunately, I hate to admit it, I have not found exactly how I drafted it, with a cursory look through the book. But I did and have used this piece for many a frock coat.

Stand Fall collar pattern for Navy Frock coat

To help add some body to the collar, I use canvas. But you do not want so much thickness in the seam line so I have used some muslin applied to the canvas with two rows of stitching, as seen below, then trimmed away. The whole piece is then turned over and the canvas is trimmed away leaving only the muslin in the seam allowance area thus reducing bulk. There is a center back seam that is then sewn and the two pieces are applied as one to the under collar pieces with padding stitches in the standing part of the collar, with the curved seam where it attaches to the neckline. A discussion of padding stitches will probably be next...

Muslin applied to canvas interfacing then trimmed to reduce
seam thickness